Photo by Bryan Stevens Angkor Bistro in Johnson City offers some innovative Asian dishes.

In the crowded field of Asian-centric restaurants in the Tri-Cities, Angkor Bistro can lay claim to having carved out at least one unique niche. To my knowledge this is the only restaurant in the region with a focus on Cambodian (Khmer) cuisine and I can’t say enough food things about this delightful Johnson City restaurant.

The establishment’s website emphasizes that fact, spotlighting the fact that Angkor Bistro is the first eatery in Johnson City to offer a selection of popular Cambodian dishes.

Named for the ancient Buddhist temple, Angkor Wat, this restaurant is open for business in a small strip mall along North State of Franklin Road. The menu offers a selection of appetizers, salads, soups and entrées.

Angkor Bistro quickly shot to near the top of my favorite Asian restaurants soon after its opening. I’ve been working my way through the array of curry dishes available, but many of the noodle dishes and stir-fries have also won my approval.

The eatery’s focus on Cambodian culture and cuisine extends to the pleasant, tranquil atmosphere of the restaurant. The dining area offers modern design touches, including seating at contemporary-styled tables with geometric, bright yellow, utilitarian chairs. Bright leaf-green and pale-gray walls offer a neutral and tranquil atmosphere. Some framed artwork of Cambodian scenes are also displayed on the walls. Decorative touches include potted bamboo plants and Buddha figurines.

Photo by Bryan Stevens
Massaman Curry at Angkor Bistro in Johnson City.

A sampling of recorded instrumental music plays softly in the background to offer a soothing, relaxing atmosphere for diners. There’s also a wall-mounted television in one corner of the dining area that plays a continuous loop of scenic Cambodian vistas interspersed with photos of menu items. Free w-fi is offered for the use of patrons.

The servers have always impressed me as polite, friendly, and attentive, but not at all intrusive. They are more than happy to answer questions about menu items and even make accommodations to personal tastes.

In addition to soft drinks, the menu offers a mix of other beverages, including Thai Iced Tea, Thai Iced Coffee and a variety of Bubble Teas, a Taiwanese tea-based drink mixed with fruit and milk and served over small, chewy pearls of tapioca.

I like to start off a visit with an appetizer, and Angkor Bistro offers a modest selection of tempting meal-starters, including Egg Rolls, Fresh Spring Rolls, Fried Pot Stickers, or Gyoza, Cheese Wontons and Fried Shumai Dumplings.

Photo by Bryan Stevens
A sampling of appetizers at Angkor Bistro, including Spring Rolls and Egg Rolls.

The Spring Rolls rank as my overall favorite among the appetizers. These meal-starters consist of rice-paper wrappers filled with chilled shrimp, cucumber, lettuce, cilantro, basil and carrots. These light, delectable morsels are served with a peanut-peppery dipping sauce.

On a recent visit, a friend and I shared an order of Fried Shumai Dumplings, which consisted of five crispy morsels served with a flavorful soy sauce for dipping.

The Egg Rolls, which feature wrappers loaded with minced meat, herbs and spices and fried to a crispy, golden-brown, are another favorite. The same soy sauce for dipping accompanied this appetizer, but upon request, a bottle of hot Sriracha sauce will also be provided to spice enthusiasts.

As I mentioned, the eatery’s curry dishes have become such favorites of mine that I am sometimes hesitant to branch out beyond them.  Some new house specials, however, have persuaded me to occasionally deviate from my fondness for curry. The Braised Beef Rice Noodle Bowl turned out to be an amazing discovery.

This dish starts out as a rice noodle soup blended with a harmonious array of many of the common ingredients found in the Southeast Asia region, including lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, paprika, star anise and turmeric. These ingredients defined the color, aroma and amazing taste of this unique dish. Although the broth is red, it is not at all spicy like the kind of dishes flavored with hot chili peppers.

Still, I often find myself leaning toward the curry dishes. My favorite is the Panang Curry, which is an intensely flavorful blend of boiled potatoes, yellow onions, chicken and the perfect combination of spices. I’ve tried four of the five curry dishes. I still need to sample the Green Curry.

My most recent visit introduced me to the Red Curry, which is moderately spicy and features green bell peppers, yellow onions and squash sauteed with chicken and spices. I found the Red Curry a strong, sharp, fresh and flavorful dish, and a definite rival with the Panang Curry for my favorite. I prefer chicken as the protein for the curries, but other options include pork, beef, shrimp and tofu.

Photo by Bryan Stevens
The Red Curry at Angkor Bistro is exceptional.

Several Cha, or Stir Fry, dishes are also available, including Snow Peas Stir Fry, Ginger Chicken, Bamboo Shrimp, Pineapple Fried Rice, Chicken Basil and Pork in Chili Paste. Most of the stir fry dishes can be ordered with the same choice of proteins —chicken, shrimp, pork,  beef and tofu — as are offered with the curries.

The stir fries and curries are accompanied by a choice of rice: jasmine, brown, fried or, for a modest additional charge, coconut rice. It’s worth the extra cost to get the coconut rice, but I’m also a big fan of the jasmine rice.

In addition, the menu offers a handful of noodle stir fries, including Drunken Noodles and Phad Thai.

Most of the dishes I have tried have been served warm, but Angkor Bistro recently added a cold salad dish to the menu that I think is a real winner: Vermicelli Rice Noodle Salad. This salad features lettuce, basil, cilantro, cucumber slice, ground peanuts and vermicelli noodles to which a couple of egg rolls, cut into bite-sized portions, are added. Chicken, pork or shrimp can be added to the salad, too.

Photo by Bryan Stevens
The Pad Thai at Angkor Bistro in Johnson City.

If I’m feeling extra hungry, I also like to add a bowl of soup to my meals when I visit Angkor Bistro. Choices include Tom Kha, a delicately seasoned soup blended with chicken, coconut milk, mushrooms and other vegetables, as well as the Tom Yum, an aromatic and hearty soup of plump shrimp, mushrooms, scallions and various herbs and spices in a rich, savory base. Tom Yum is a staple at most Thai restaurants, but this is one of the best I’ve sampled anywhere. I relish every spoonful of this bold soup.

Photo by Bryan Stevens
Tom Yum Soup at Angkor Bistro.

Angkor Bistro deserves a loyal embrace from lovers of Asian cuisines. Give them try and get a taste of the cuisine of Cambodia. If you go, let them know they were highly recommended.

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AT A GLANCE: Angkor Bistro, 600 N. State of Franklin, Johnson City.  929-1001. Monday-Saturday, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Menu items $7.59 and under. Credit cards accepted. Carryout available.

This column is also available at http://www.cartercountycompass.com/

Photo by Bryan Stevens
Bamboo Shrimp at Angkor Bistro.

 

 

Try Paragon for classic diner fare with flair

 

A friend and I enjoyed a recent Saturday afternoon meal at the Paragon Diner, a new eatery in Johnson City. This restaurant, which opened for business in late 2013, offers classical diner fare with flair for breakfast, lunch and dinner. We enjoyed every aspect of the visit, including friendly service, good-tasting food and a welcoming and well-considered dining atmosphere.

The new diner, which is owned by Peter Simeon, Gus Coubis and Harry Arsi, offers a diverse menu. In addition to classic American diner cuisine, there’s also a nod to some Greek and Mediterranean dishes, including Baked Spinach Pie, Souvlaki, Gyros, Eggplant Parmigiana, Fettuccine Alfredo and Greek Style Spaghetti.

Located in the building that formerly housed the Atlanta Bread Company, the Paragon Diner has transformed its surroundings with well-planned focus on a stately but inviting interior design. The walls are painted dark taupe-gray and sage green, and are contrasted with white brickwork and trim as well as some tin-stamped paneling. Some unframed canvas works of art are displayed on the walls.  There’s a white-brick corner fireplace that lends the entire dining room some cozy comfort. Artistic light fixtures, ornamental faceted sunburst mirrors and floor-length windows draped with white linen curtains complete the tasteful decor. Seating is available at tables and various booths and half-booths.

Upon entering the restaurant, you can’t miss the large glass display that showcases the restaurant’s delectable assortment of cakes and pies.

Photo by David Thometz
The display case of delicious desserts at Paragon Diner in Johnson City.

Asked whether we preferred a table or booth, we chose the latter and were quickly seated. Our server, Tiffany, provided menus and took our drink orders.

As I’ve mentioned, the menu’s quite extensive, so it took some time to study the offerings, which included appetizers, breakfast favorites, salads, sandwiches, burgers, paninis, wraps and triple-deckers. The menu also listed Greek and Italian specialties, hot open-faced platters, poultry, steaks, chops, seafood and pasta.

We began the meal with a shared appetizer, which include Spinach Pie, Potato Skins, Chicken Tenders and Chicken Quesadilla, as well as Baked Feta Cheese and Olives. This last item, which also came with our server’s recommendation, sounded quite unique. This meal-starter features two slabs of baked feta cheese served on a bed of mixed greens and garnished with sliced black olives. The tangy cheese was warm and delicious and went well with the olives and greens, which had been drizzled with olive oil. Although delicious, it was a lot for two diners; I’d recommend this appetizer for a small party of four or five.

Photo by Bryan Stevens                               Baked Feta Cheese and Olives makes a nice appetizer for sharing.

We then turned our full attention to choosing our main dishes. Some of the specialty sandwiches got my notice, include the Monte Cristo and Chicken Cordon Bleu, as did some of the Greek and Italian specialties. I also considered several of the pasta dishes, including St. Luis Pasta, which features Grilled Chicken, spinach and tomatoes in a spicy Cajun cream sauce served over fettuccine pasta, and the Pasta Portabella with Chicken. The Center Cut Marinated Jumbo Pork Chops and the Filet of Sole Florentine also vied for my attention.

I decided to try the Gyro Platter, which is accompanied by a small Greek salad, sauteed vegetables, pita bread and tzatziki sauce.

My friend ordered the Chicken Breast Florentine after also considering the Chicken Marsala and Mediterranean Shrimp.

I also added a cup of soup. The selections available during our visit were Beef and Noodle and Chicken and Rice. I chose the Beef and Noodle. My friend added a cup of the Chicken and Rice Soup to his meal.

The soup arrived ahead of the main meal. The Beef and Noodle was a hearty mix of bowtie pasta, celery, carrots, peas, corn, green beans, onion and beef in a tomato-based broth. The Chicken and Rice Soup featured the same vegetables as those in the Beef and Noodle Soup, but in a milder chicken broth.

Photo by David Thometz
Lamb Gyro Platter

The main dishes arrived quickly, and we were impressed with the ample portions. The lamb gyro was heaped on a bed of seasoned rice, accompanied by sauteed green beans. The Greek salad consisted of mixed greens, cucumbers, tomatoes and black olives with a zesty Greek dressing. The pita bread and tzatziki sauce provided the traditional accompaniment for the lamb gyros.

My friend enjoyed the Chicken Breast Florentine, which featured layers of feta cheese and mounds of sauteed spinach over a chicken breast.

Photo by Bryan Stevens
Chicken Breast Florentine

 

Of course, after passing by that display case of desserts on our way into the restaurant, we could not resist trying some of these sweets. In addition to fruit-topped cheesecake, the available desserts included Carrot Cake, Chocolate Cake, Red Velvet Cake, Hummingbird Cake and Italian Cream Cake.

I chose a piece of Strawberry Shortcake, while my friend ordered the Black Forest Cake. My Strawberry Shortcake arrived as a tall wedge of cake that featured layers of strawberry mousse between the white cake. The outside of the cake was dusted with slivered almonds, topped with fresh strawberries and more sliced almonds and drizzled with a vanilla syrup. The cake was sweet, moist and delicious, a perfect end to the meal. My friend also liked the Black Forest Cake, which featured a rich, decadent melding of dark chocolate with sweet cherries.

 

 

Photo by Bryan Stevens
Sample a delectable dessert at the meal’s end, such as this Strawberry Shortcake.

We left very impressed. Paragon Diner should be a wonderful addition to the Johnson City dining scene. We have already returned for several additional visits. If you go, let them know they were recommended.

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AT A GLANCE: Paragon Diner, 2010 Franklin Terrace Court, 631-0628. Open daily from 6:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Entrees range from $5.95-$17.95. Credit cards accepted. Carryout available.

 

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If you would like to recommend a restaurant for this weekly exploration of regional dining destinations, send an email to diningdestinations@wordpress.com or call me at 423-725-2666.